Punta del Este lives between two waters. The Atlantic crashes onto Playa Brava on the east side of the peninsula. The Río de la Plata laps quietly against Playa Mansa on the west. Most of what makes the destination interesting sits in the choice between those two coasts and the small towns that string east toward José Ignacio.
This guide assumes you want the honest version: when to come, which beach fits which mood, where Casapueblo is worth the trip, how far La Barra and José Ignacio actually are, and what to book before high season closes the door on the good tables.